STORM AT SEA

You'll be paper piecing like a pro after learning my "No More Tears"© Foundation Piecing Method

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Are you curious about paper piecing? Do you and paper piecing already have a love/hate relationship? Do you love the accuracy you achieve, but hate the process of getting there? Well, this class will change that to a LOVE relationship. We’ll be using the versatile Storm at Sea pattern to learn my “No More Tears”© method of paper piecing. Although we won’t be finishing the entire project in class, you’ll have at least one full block, and the tools you’ll need to finish it at home, in half the time you’d expect from paper piecing. Don’t believe me?  You’ll just have to come and see for yourself! 

In this one-day class we’ll take the mystery out of:

The basics of paper piecing

The "No More Tears"© method

Storm at Sea basics

Precise block and quilt top construction

You'll be paper piecing like a pro by the end of class!

BRING TO CLASS

Your 3 baggies of pre-cut fabric

Sewing machine, thread and pre-wound bobbin, regular piecing foot and 1/4" foot

Pins, size 7 basting needle, and just in case, a seam ripper

Rotary cutter (with a new blade) and ruler - 6"x12" works fine

Small cutting mat 9" x 12" is fine

Highlighter (any color)

¼” Paper Piecing Ruler  (optional, but available for purchase)

Paper and  fabric scissors

Something in which to collect your scraps

**Since there will be pressing stations set up, there's no need to bring your own iron**

Cutting Specs

 

Your finished wall hanging should measure about 30"x30.

A word about fabric selectionPlease, keep it simple, and keep in mind that we’re here to learn a new method, and maybe not create the ultimate Storm at Sea masterpiece.  Ideally, we’re looking for 2 contrasting fabrics* that allow the Storm at Sea pattern to shine.  The finished product will be simple to construct, yet impactful. 

Why only 2 fabrics?  Because this class is less about design and more about technique.  Like anything new we learn, we want it to become habit, and if we’re focused on design, it takes away from our practice time.

  *Contrasting fabric means any 2 fabrics that will stand out on their own and make the lines of your quilt top “crisp”.  They can be solids, a print and a solid, or 2 small prints that read as solid from a distance.  Another thing to remember is that solid fabrics will be a little less forgiving if your points don't match precisely.  When selecting your fabric, avoid directional prints, large prints, or 2 prints that share a common color.  Designate which of your fabrics is “dark” and which “light’.  

 

Yardage

You’ll want to start with 2 yards of Dark fabric and 2 yards of Light fabric, from which you’ll be using approximately 41” of the Dark and 30” of the Light. You’ll have enough fabric left over for the backing (Light fabric) and binding (Dark fabric), or re-cutting any whoopses. 

Cutting Specs

All fabric is cut cross grain or Width of Fabric (WOF).  Measurements assume 40" of useable fabric. Bring cut pieces to class in three baggies...one for Large Center Squares, one for Sashing Rectangles and one for Cornerstone Squares.  

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Baggie #1

Large Center Squares: (9 total used for wall hanging) –

From the Dark Fabric

Cut one 4" strip. From this strip cut nine 4" squares.  Then...

Cut two 4-1/2" strips. From these strips cut eighteen 4-1/2" squares. Cut these eighteen squares diagonally in half to form thirty six half-square triangles.  Place the squares and half-square triangles in Baggie #1.

From the Light Fabric

Cut two 3-1/2" strips. From these strips cut eighteen 3-1/2" squares. Cut these eighteen squares diagonally in half to form thirty six half-square triangles.  Place the triangles in Baggie #1              

 

Baggie #2

Cornerstone Squares: (16 total used for wall hanging)   

From the Dark Fabric

Cut one 2 1/2" strip- Cut this strip into sixteen 2 1/2" squares. Then...

Cut two 3" strips. Cut these strips into thirty two 3" squares. Cut these thirty two squares diagonally in half to form sixty four half-square triangles. (If you don't have enough fabric, use the remainder of the 4" strip from the Sashing Rectangle to make up the difference.)  Place in Baggie #2

From the Light Fabric

Cut two 2" strips. Cut these strips into thirty two 2" squares. Cut these 32 squares diagonally in half to form sixty four half square triangles.  Place in Baggie #2.

 

Baggie #3

Sashing Rectangles: (24 total used for wall hanging)  

From the Dark Fabric

Cut five 4" strips. Cut these strips into twenty-four 4"x7" rectangles.  Place them in Baggie #3.

From the Light Fabric

Cut six 3" strips. Cut these strips into forty eight 3"x5" rectangles. Cut these forty eight rectangles diagonally in half to form ninety six "uneven" or asymmetrical triangles.  Place them in Baggie #3.

Note: Since these triangles are ''uneven " or asymmetrical they have a definite direction in the block. It is important that you make sure you pair your rectangles either wrong or right sides together before cutting them in half diagonally. An easy way to do this is by making sure you keep your strips folded in half, as the fabric comes off the bolt, before cutting the rectangles.  This way, you'll be cutting two at a time, and the rectangles will already be wrong sides together.*

                                  *Watch the video at here for a demonstration