STORM AT SEA In 2 or 3 Colors

The perfect quilt for beginners AND experienced Paper-Piecers alike

It's Paper Piecing for the 21st Century

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Are you curious about paper piecing? Do you and paper piecing already have a love/hate relationship? Do you love the accuracy you achieve, but hate the process of getting there? Well, this class will change that to a LOVE relationship. 

 

We’ll be using the complex-looking,versatile Storm at Sea pattern to learn my “No More Tears”© method of paper piecing. Believe it or not, it's the perfect project to learn or perfect paper piecing. 

 

Although we won’t be finishing the entire project in class, you’ll have at least one full block, and the tools you’ll need to finish in half the time you’d expect from paper piecing. Don’t believe me?  You’ll just have to come and see for yourself! 

You'll Learn:

The basics of paper piecing

The "No More Tears"© method

Storm at Sea basics

Precise block and quilt top construction

BRING TO CLASS

Your pre-cut and any extra fabric

Sewing machine, thread and pre-wound bobbin, regular piecing foot and 1/4" foot

Pins, and just in case, a seam ripper

Rotary cutter (with a new blade) and ruler - 6"x12" works fine

Invisible Scotch Tape (any brand)

Pencil or pen

A Hand Needle (embroidery, cotton darning) as long as it has a sharp point and a long eye

17lb Translucent Vellum 8 1/2" x 11"*

To order 100 sheets click here

To order 50 sheets click here

To order 30 sheets click here

Small cutting mat 9" x 12" is fine

Highlighter (any color)

Add-A-Quarter ruler (the longer the better)

Paper and  fabric scissors

Something in which to collect your scraps

Oral B Pro-Health Comfort Plus Floss

Elmer's Disappearing Purple Glue Stick or any washable, acid free glue stick

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WHY VELLUM?

If you don't feel like reading all of the following stuff, just skip to the last paragraph.

 

First of all, it makes the paper piecing process much easier and the pattern preparation much faster.  When I first developed my method of paper piecing I used regular copy paper because I wanted to eliminate the need to purchase special papers.  However, in the early years I experimented with all different kinds of paper and discovered 17lb vellum.  It was perfect for the process.  And when I taught live classes I supplied the vellum patterns as part of the class materials.

Then came virtual classes and you all needed to print your own patterns.  Copy paper is easily available and almost everyone has copy paper.  It works, but there's more pattern prep to do because copy paper isn't smooth and isn't translucent.  For most of my patterns, copy paper is just fine because the patterns don't have lots of segments.  "Not Your Daddy's Log Cabin" blocks have twenty-two segments and regular copy paper doesn't quite cut it.  It's usable, but not ideal.  Thus, the need for vellum.

You can look for your own 17# vellum, but the links I've supplied are brands that I've used before and I can definitely say that they are my favorites.  If you choose to look for your own, make sure it's 17#, 8-1.5" x 11" and feeds through your printer smoothly.  Also, if you've never taken one of my classes before, you'll just have to trust that whichever quantity you order, one sheet of paper goes a long way.  

 

So the bottom line is this...get the vellum.  It goes through the printer the same as copy paper  You'll find it changes everything and streamlines the process, eliminating time.  There are links above for 100 sheets, 50 sheets or 30 sheets.  The 100 sheet option is the most economical, and order early to make sure you have your vellum in time for class.

A WORD ABOUT FABRIC

A word about fabric selection:  Please, keep it simple, and keep in mind that we’re here to learn a new method, and maybe not create the ultimate Storm at Sea masterpiece.  Ideally, we’re looking for 2 contrasting** fabrics, and if you want, a third color, you’ll want to use a different fabric in the same color family as your dark fabric. Either way, your Storm at Sea will shine.  The finished project will be simple to construct, yet impactful. ​

Why only 2 (or 3) fabrics?  Because this class is less about design and more about technique.  Like anything new we learn, we want it to become habit, and if we’re focused on design, it takes away from our practice time.​

 If you want to add a third color for more movement, I find that a variation of your “dark” fabric works well.  ​

All fabric is cut cross grain or Width of Fabric (WOF).  Measurements assume 40" of useable fabric. Bring cut pieces to class in three baggies...one for Large Center Squares, one for Sashing Rectangles and one for Cornerstone Squares.  

 

  **Contrasting fabric means any 2 fabrics that will stand out on their own and make the lines of your quilt top “crisp”.  They can be solids, a print and a solid, or 2 small prints that read as solid from a distance.  Another thing to remember is that solid fabrics will be a little less forgiving if your points don't match precisely.  When selecting your fabric, avoid directional prints, large prints, or 2 prints that share the same color(s).

CUTTING SPECS

 

If you start with 2 yards of each fabric you'll have enough left of the dark for your binding and enough left of the light for the backing.  You'll actually be using 41.5" of the dark fabric and 29" of the light.  If making a 3 color quilt, adjust the yardage as detailed in the cutting directions for Baggie #3.

Baggie #1

Large Center Squares: (9 total used for wall hanging) 6.5"x6.5" unfinished

From the Dark Fabric:

Cut one 4" strip. From this strip cut nine 4" squares.

Cut two 4-1/2" strips. From these strips cut eighteen 4-1/2" squares. Cut these eighteen squares diagonally in half to form thirty six half-square triangles.  Place them in Baggie #1.

From the Light Fabric:

Cut two 3-1/2" strips. From these strips cut eighteen 3-1/2" squares. Cut these eighteen squares diagonally in half to form thirty six half-square triangles.  Place them in Baggie #1

              

 

Baggie #2

Cornerstone Squares: (16 total used for wall hanging) 3.5"x3.5" unfinished  

From the Dark Fabric:

Cut one 2 ½” strip. Cut this strip into sixteen 2 ½”  squares. 

Cut two 3" strips. Cut these strips into thirty two 3" squares. Cut these thirty two squares diagonally in half to form sixty four half-square triangles. (If you don't have enough fabric, use the remainder of the 4" strip from the Sashing Rectangle to make up the difference.)  Place in Baggie #2

From the Light Fabric:

Cut two 2" strips. Cut these strips into thirty two 2" squares. Cut these 32 squares diagonally in half to form sixty four half square triangles.  Place in Baggie #2.

 

Baggie #3

Sashing Rectangles: (24 total used for wall hanging) 3.5"x6.5" unfinished 

From the Dark Fabric:

Cut five 4" strips. Cut these strips into twenty-four 4"x7" rectangles.  Place them in Baggie #3.

If using the third color, follow the cutting directions above and you’ll start with at least 20” of that fabric.

From the Light Fabric:

Cut six 3" strips. Cut these strips into forty eight 3"x5" rectangles. Cut these forty eight rectangles diagonally in half to form ninety six "uneven" or asymmetrical triangles.  Place them in Baggie #3.

Note: Since these triangles are ''uneven " or asymmetrical they have a precise placement in the block. It is important that you make sure you pair your rectangles either wrong or right sides together before cutting them in half diagonally. An easy way to do this is by making sure you keep your strips folded in half, as the fabric comes off the bolt, before cutting the rectangles.  This way, the rectangles will already be wrong sides together.

 

*Watch the “How to Cut Irregular Triangles at “quiltmavendave.com” for a demonstration*